Discovering Varanasi’s Evening Charms: Beyond the Ghats
Varanasi, India – a city that pulsates with ancient spirituality, vibrant chaos, and an undeniable magnetic pull. While the dawn and dusk aarti ceremonies at the ghats are the undeniable stars of the show, what about when the sun dips below the horizon and you’re looking for a place to relax, reflect, or simply enjoy a good drink? While Varanasi isn’t typically known as a party capital, the city offers a surprisingly diverse range of spots to unwind, from rooftop cafes with breathtaking views to cozy corners serving local brews. As a long-time resident and avid explorer of this sacred city, I’ve discovered some gems that offer a different perspective on Varanasi’s evening allure.
Forget the frantic pace of the day for a moment. Let’s talk about slowing down, savoring the moment, and finding those perfect spots where the spirit of Varanasi can be enjoyed with a drink in hand. Whether you’re a traveler seeking a taste of local life, a spiritual seeker wanting a quiet moment, or just someone looking for a good beverage, this guide to Varanasi’s best bars and drinking spots is for you. We’ll explore places that offer more than just alcohol; they offer an experience, a view, or a unique ambiance that complements the magic of this ancient city.
Rooftop Revelry: Views That Soothe the Soul
The undisputed champions of Varanasi’s bar scene, for many, are the rooftop establishments. Perched atop guesthouses and hotels, these spots offer unparalleled panoramic views of the Ganges, the bustling ghats, and the labyrinthine alleys. As the day’s heat subsides, the city transforms into a twinkling tapestry, and there’s no better place to witness this than from above.
1. Baanarasi Rooftop Cafe (Near Assi Ghat)
This is a personal favorite for many, and for good reason. Located a stone’s throw from the vibrant Assi Ghat, Baanarasi Rooftop Cafe offers a classic Varanasi experience. The ambiance is laid-back, often with gentle Indian music playing in the background. Their menu features a good selection of Indian and international drinks. The real draw, however, is the view. Imagine sipping on a chilled Kingfisher beer or a refreshing mocktail as you watch the boats glide across the Ganges and the ghats come alive with evening activity. It’s the perfect spot to decompress after a day of exploring.
- Why visit: Incredible Ganges views, relaxed atmosphere, good for sunset.
- Insider tip: Try their special lassi, it’s legendary, and ask for a table facing the river for the best experience.
- Address: Near Assi Ghat, Varanasi (specific address may vary, but easily found by asking locals near Assi Ghat).
2. Brown Bread Bakery & Pizza Cafe (B related to the Ganges)
While primarily known for its delicious food, Brown Bread Bakery also offers a fantastic rooftop setting, especially its branches closer to the river. The atmosphere here is generally more bohemian and lively, attracting a mix of travelers and locals. They have a decent bar menu with beers, wines, and spirits. The views are still spectacular, offering a different angle on the ghats and the old city skyline. It’s a great place to mingle and enjoy a casual evening.
- Why visit: Lively ambiance, great views, good food and drink options.
- Insider tip: Their pizzas are exceptional, so consider pairing your drinks with a meal. The rooftop seating is highly sought after, especially during peak hours.
- Address: Multiple locations, look for one with a rooftop near Dashashwamedh Ghat or Lalita Ghat for the prime views.
3. Pizzeria Vau De Vie (Kachori Gali)
Tucked away in the charming lanes near the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Pizzeria Vau De Vie offers a surprising rooftop oasis. While the ground floor is cozy, the rooftop provides a more open-air experience with decent views of the surrounding cityscape. It’s a bit more off the beaten path than the ghat-side cafes, offering a quieter, more intimate setting. They serve a selection of alcoholic beverages, making it a good option for those exploring the old city and looking for a place to rest their feet and enjoy a drink.
- Why visit: Unique location, quieter atmosphere, good for a relaxed evening after temple visits.
- Insider tip: This place is a true find; don’t expect expansive river views, but enjoy the authentic neighborhood feel.
- Address: Kachori Gali, Varanasi.
Local Flavors and Cozy Corners
Beyond the rooftops, Varanasi offers some more grounded experiences. These places might not boast sweeping vistas, but they offer a taste of local life, authentic ambiance, and sometimes, unique local beverages.
4. Dolphin Restaurant (Lanka)
While not strictly a ‘bar,’ Dolphin Restaurant is a popular haunt for students and locals alike, especially those connected to the Banaras Hindu University (BHU) area. It’s known for its budget-friendly food and a lively, sometimes boisterous, atmosphere. They serve a range of alcoholic beverages, including local beers. It’s a no-frills kind of place where you can experience a slice of everyday Varanasi life. The crowd is diverse, and it’s a good spot if you’re looking for something less touristy.
- Why visit: Local vibe, affordable drinks, good for people-watching.
- Insider tip: Come here to feel the pulse of the city away from the main tourist drag.
- Address: Lanka, Varanasi, close to BHU.
5. Hotel Ganges Grand (Near Dashashwamedh Ghat)
Many of the larger hotels in Varanasi have their own in-house bars or lounges. Hotel Ganges Grand is one such example. These hotel bars often offer a more refined and comfortable setting compared to some of the smaller cafes. They typically have a well-stocked bar with international and Indian spirits, wines, and beers. While they might lack the rustic charm of some local spots, they provide a reliable and comfortable environment for a quiet drink, especially if you’re staying nearby or prefer a more formal setting.
- Why visit: Comfortable and reliable setting, good for a quiet drink.
- Insider tip: Often a good place to catch up on news from other travelers if you strike up a conversation with the bar staff.
- Address: Near Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi.
Exploring Beyond the Obvious: A Note on Local Brews and Experiences
Varanasi, being a deeply spiritual city, has a unique relationship with alcohol. You won’t find sprawling pubs or loud nightclubs here. The drinking culture is more subdued, often integrated with dining or enjoying scenic views. The focus is on relaxation and conversation rather than revelry.
Local Beer: The most common and widely available alcoholic beverage in Varanasi, as in much of India, is beer. Kingfisher is ubiquitous, often available in its strong and premium variants. Haywards 5000 is another popular choice for those seeking something stronger. You can find these at almost all the establishments mentioned above, as well as smaller local eateries and shops.
Spirits: Indian Made Foreign Liquor (IMFL) is readily available. Popular choices include Indian whiskies like Royal Stag, Imperial Blue, and McDowell’s No. 1. Gin, rum, and vodka from Indian brands are also common. For those seeking a taste of local craftsmanship, keep an eye out for any artisanal spirits that might be emerging, though these are less common in Varanasi compared to some other Indian cities.
The ‘Bhaang’ Experience: It’s impossible to talk about Varanasi’s unique consumables without mentioning bhaang. While not an alcoholic beverage, bhaang is a traditional preparation made from the leaves and flowers of the cannabis plant, often consumed in the form of ‘bhaang lassi’ or ‘bhaang goli’ (balls). It’s deeply ingrained in the local culture, particularly during festivals like Holi. While it’s a unique experience for some visitors, it’s important to consume it responsibly and be aware of its effects. Bhaang shops are often found near temples, but it’s crucial to buy from reputable vendors. For those interested in understanding the cultural nuances, reading up on local customs is advised. For more insights into local consumption and trends, you might find interesting articles on platforms like dropt.beer’s insights and news blog.
Practical Tips for Enjoying Varanasi’s Nightlife
- Dress Code: While Varanasi is generally conservative, most bars and rooftop cafes are accustomed to tourists. Casual, comfortable clothing is perfectly acceptable. However, if you plan to visit a more upscale hotel bar, slightly smarter attire might be appreciated.
- Operating Hours: Alcohol sales and consumption are regulated in India. Most bars and restaurants serving alcohol operate within specific hours, typically from late afternoon until around 10:30 PM or 11:00 PM. Some hotel bars may have later hours. It’s always a good idea to check the closing times beforehand, especially if you’re planning a late-night drink.
- Getting Around: Varanasi’s old city can be challenging to navigate, especially after dark. Auto-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws are the primary modes of transport. Ensure you agree on the fare before starting your journey. For areas near the ghats, walking is often the best way to get around, but be mindful of uneven paths and the crowds.
- Hydration: Evenings in Varanasi can still be warm. Always stay hydrated by drinking plenty of bottled water. If you’re enjoying alcoholic beverages, alternate them with water.
- Respect Local Customs: Varanasi is a deeply religious city. While enjoying a drink, especially in public or semi-public spaces, be mindful of your surroundings and maintain a respectful demeanor. Avoid excessive noise or rowdy behavior, particularly near religious sites or residential areas.
- Safety: As with any city, exercise common sense. Stick to well-lit areas, especially when walking back to your accommodation. Keep your valuables secure and be aware of your surroundings. If you feel uncomfortable in any situation, don’t hesitate to seek help from locals or your accommodation provider.
A Note on Responsible Drinking and Local Regulations
It’s important to be aware that Varanasi is a dry state in terms of official liquor policy, meaning liquor shops are not readily available as they are in many other parts of India. However, licensed hotels and restaurants are permitted to serve alcohol to their patrons. This means you’ll primarily find bars within hotels or attached to restaurants and cafes. You cannot typically buy a bottle of alcohol from a standalone store to consume elsewhere. This regulation shapes the drinking landscape, making the experience more about dining and relaxing within established venues rather than casual off-premise consumption. For those interested in the broader context of alcohol availability and consumption trends in India, resources like dropt.beer’s shop and their informational content can provide further details.
If you’re looking to purchase craft beers, unique spirits, or learn more about the beer scene, exploring online platforms can be very insightful. Websites like dropt.beer offer a glimpse into the world of craft beverages and might even provide information relevant to exploring local tastes or understanding beverage trends that could indirectly influence the offerings in a city like Varanasi.
Conclusion: Savoring Varanasi, One Sip at a Time
Varanasi’s bar scene might not be about neon lights and booming music, but it offers something far more profound: a chance to connect with the city’s soul. From the mesmerizing Ganges views atop a rooftop to the quiet conversations in a local eatery, these spots provide a space to pause, reflect, and soak in the unique atmosphere of this ancient city. Whether you’re enjoying a local beer, a refreshing lassi, or simply the company of fellow travelers, these venues offer a tranquil counterpoint to Varanasi’s vibrant spiritual energy. So, next time you find yourself by the sacred Ganges, venture beyond the aarti and discover these delightful spots for a different, yet equally enchanting, Varanasi experience.